Tracing the pattern
Trace the outline of the pattern on the fabric with tailor chalk or erasable fabric markers.
If your pattern is in one piece, you don’t need to mark any seam allowance. Otherwise just cut a rough seam allowance, it doesn’t need to be precise.
Mark a place for the opening somewhere on a straight seam on the side or the bottom of the body. Make the face as you wish, see Faces
Sew the ears and turn them inside out. Pin them on the body, make sure that the inner ears face the front of the softie. I don’t fill the ears, but I sometimes use a layer of batting in between if the ears are large.
Sew arms and legs together, turn them inside out and fill them lightly with stuffing. Place all the parts between the front and back body and pin it together. It can get a little bumpy if you have both arms and legs, but with a little patience it should work out.
Sew directly on the traced line, remember the opening.
Cutting seam allowance
Cut closely around the seam. If the fabric tends to unravel you can give it a zigzag seam. Otherwise just leave it as it is. Once the softie is stuffed, there will be less wear and tear on the seam than on clothes seams. Clip carefully in the curves and the notches.
Turn the softie inside out, make sure to poke out the ears etc. I use a pencil with a broken tip, the thick end for the larger parts and the tip for ears etc.
Stuff the softie as much as you wish, depending on how firm you want it to be.
I use cheep pillows from IKEA for stuffing, but any kind af polyester or cotton stuffing will do. You can also use small fabric scraps for stuffing, but it will be a heavier and more compact softie with this.
Close the gap with ladder stitches in a thread which matches the fabric. Video tutorial